Choosing the Best Chemical Exfoliant for Each Client
Chemical exfoliants have been some of the oldest, most recognizable, and helpful cosmetic ingredients in skin care and their popularity and usefulness has not yet diminished. They remain one of the most reliable methods for skin resurfacing and improving the overall appearance of the skin as they continue to be highly sought after as the “miracle” for anti-aging. According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, there were 1,360,850 chemical peels performed in 2016 – up four percent from 2015 and up 18 percent from the year 2000.
There are two main categories of chemical exfoliants: alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) and beta hydroxy acids (BHA). AHA include some of the most commonly recognized ingredients; including glycolic acid, which is derived from sugarcane, and lactic acid, which is derived from milk. Other AHA ingredients that have become noteworthy are mandelic acid, which is derived from almonds; malic acid, which is derived from apples; and azelaic acid, which is derived from sunflower seeds. The range of AHAs continue with passionflower and lemon as a natural fruit source of citric and tartaric acid. BHAs include salicylic acid. The difference between AHAs and BHAs is their solubility. AHAs are water-soluble and their primary action lies in their keratolytic ability as they weaken bonds that hold dead skin cells together. When these bonds are weakened, the dead cells can be shed from the surface of the skin, resulting in skin that appears fresher, smoother, and younger. BHAs are oil-soluble and often capable of slipping through the natural skin lipids, but most importantly, solubilizing sebum and congestion in the pores, making it ideal for use on oily, congested, and acne-prone skin.
The benefits of safe and regular use of AHAs and BHAs go beyond the immediate sensation of smoothness left behind after their removal. Many AHAs function as intermediates in several key metabolic pathways. Due to biochemical conversion of acids that takes place upon their application and various chemical reactions with numerous skin molecules, they are also capable of producing many other skin-beneficial processes, such as generation of cellular energy, moisturization, and synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and collagens, which in turn improves elasticity.
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